ATMOPHERE

Unwinding can easily become a full-time occupation on Tortola. Though the island offers a wealth of things to see and do, many visitors prefer just to loll about on its deserted sands or linger over lunch at one if its many delightful restaurants. Beaches are never more than a few minutes away, and steep green hills that form Tortola’s spine are fanned by gentle trade winds. The neighboring islands glimmer like emeralds in a sea of sapphire. It’s a world far removed from the hustle of modern life.

Luxury on Tortola is more a state of mind—serenity, seclusion, gentility—than state-of-the-art amenities and facilities.

DINING

On Tortola local seafood is plentiful, and although other fresh ingredients are scarce, the island’s chefs are a creative lot, who apply genius to whatever the weekly supply boat delivers. Contemporary American dishes prepared with a Caribbean influence are very popular. The fanciers, more expensive restaurants have dress codes: long pants and collared shirts for men, and elegant, casual resort wear for women.

Pusser's Landing

Yachter’s flock to this waterfront restaurant. Downstairs, from late morning to well into the evening, belly up to the outdoor mahogany bar or choose a waterside table for drinks, sandwiches, rotis, fish and chips, and pizzas. At dinnertime head upstairs for a harbor view and a quiet alfresco meal of grilled steak or local fish.

BEACHES

Beaches in the BVI are less developed than those on St. Thomas or St. Croix. Try to get out on a dive-snorkeling boat or a day-trip sailing vessel at least once. This is often the best way to reach the virginVirgin beaches, which are on deserted islands. Tortola’s north side has several perfect palm-fringed white-sand beaches that curl around turquoise bays and coves. Nearly all are accessible by car (preferably one with four-wheel-drive), albeit down bumpy roads that corkscrew precipitously. Facilities run the gamut, from absolutely none to a number of beachside bars and restaurants as well as places to rent water-sports equipment.

Smuggler’s Cove

After bouncing your way to this beautiful beach, you’ll feel as is you’ve found a hidden piece of the island, although you probably won’t be alone on weekends. There’s a fine view of Jost Van Dyke Island, and the snorkeling is good.

NIGHTLIFE

Like any good sailing destination, Tortola has watering holes that are popular with salty and not-so-salty dogs. Many offer entertainment; check the weekly Limin’ Times for schedules. The local beverage is the painkiller, an innocent-tasting mixture of fruit juices and rums. It goes down smoothly but packs quite a punch, so give yourself a moment before you order another

EXPLORING TORTOLA

Tortola doesn’t have many historical sights, but it does have lots of beautiful natural scenery. Although you could explore the island’s 10 square mi. in a few hours, opting for such a whirlwind tour would be a mistake. Life in the fast lane has no place amid some of the Caribbean’s most breathtaking panoramas and beaches. Also, the roads are extraordinarily steep and twisting, making driving demanding. The best strategy is to explore a bit of the island at a time. For example, you might try Road Town (the island’s main town) one morning and a drive to Cane Garden Bay and West End (a little town on, of course, the island’s west end) the next afternoon. Or consider a visit to the East End, a very tiny town located exactly where its name suggests. The north shore is where you’ll find all the best beaches.

Source: Fodor’s 16th Edition Guide to The U.S. & British Virgin Islands